"Man can not live on foie gras alone." -- Tony
The above quote from this episode sums it up nicely. This episode is NOT about gourmet food. Instead, it's about childhood and memories and comfort. It's working class. Tony does a good job of touring Jersey and sharing his own memories.
My absolute favorite part of this episode is the guest spot by Mario Batali. The whole sequence is hilarious as Mario is over run with fans, while Tony gets pushed aside. Brilliant! Mario and Tony have been friends for years and it shows.
I was a little disappointed with the focus on the Sopranos in the first half of the show. Eventually, the prolonged discussion of New Jersey's most famous TV show pays off with the closing Mario gag. However, the same joke would've worked with less set-up. This would have given Tony more time to visit other places, maybe even found a high class restaurant to try.
Overall: It was nice to see Tony in some different places (a high school cafeteria, a hot dog stand, etc). If you only like the episodes where Tony is at his most cynical and snarky, this isn't the episode for you. This is more of a self indulgent trip don memory lane where comfort and predictability are more important that fancy ingredients and gourmet tastes. I wouldn't want this gentler Tony for every episode, but it did make a nice change of pace.