Andrew arrives in Uganda with a review of its existences and sights. He calls it a developing country with the friendliest people creating food out of necessity. At the village of Lwanika, he observes catfish being caught from an estuary and becomes the first white man to try catching lungfish from the mud in a rice paddy. The fish actually bites back and lives in mud long after the water is gone. While the women don't eat it, they do prepare it for the men. It's smoked and dried, but Andrew can still taste the mud.
Getting immersed in the culture, Andrew follows guide Haruna Walisimbi to look for white ants, routing them from their ant hills and into bowls to be eaten live and raw. Lured out by water, smoke and drumming, Andrew compares them to almonds with wings. The favorite snack of the village, they're also served fried.
Andrew is also invited into a ritual to summon a spirit and become a vehicle of possession. Plants and animals are sometimes sacrificed. Andrew is adorned in shell necklaces and surrounded by pulsating women with a lot of ceremony and dancing. He comes out of it with his humor and a lot of good spirits.
Andrew calls the Ugandans a peaceful people who love visitors. The Lwanika Women's Cooking Group offers him goat meat preserved and salted to taste. Andrew learns how to cut plantains for a dish called metoki which is eaten with fungus, with roasted goat, rice and grasshoppers, which aren't in season but one is caught for Andrew. The village eats in groups of men, women and children with Andrew in a group of one. Squirrel meat is roasted over a fire, and millet grain is produced into kasaba bread eaten with the goat meat. Andrew has a vegetable called matoki, which is like squash and served with plaintains. Steamed goat intestines are served as the meal ends with music.
Andrew departs Lwanika for Kampala on Lake Victoria. At the fishing village of Gaba, he is joined by guide Ben Mesisi to discover tilapia and Nile perch. He gets a fish sandwich from a stand and discovers impafu seeds that are like olives before having samosas. Road stands serve goat meat on a stick and at the Nakasenyi village they get roasted corn and fried mandazi bread. Andrew also gets stuffed and fried intestines, a local favorite which Andrew finds a bit gamey.
Eighty percent of the country lives in Kampala. Andrew heads to the Emin Pasha Hotel where its chef Sean Christensen cooks cane rat meat. The cane rat is a local threat, but it's also a prized food source. Andrew also has raw crocodile meat in dill presented as a Scandinavian dish and Lake Victoria tilapia, which is much better than its American version. He finally gets served the roasted rat in peanut sauce, but it tastes like chicken.