I really enjoy this episode every time I see it. B'Elanna is always one of my favorite characters because she's so complicated. This episode tackles her struggle with her Klingon hertitage. The scene with Neelix is particularly interesting because he talks her into giving it a shot.
It also wouldn't be a Klingon day without painsticks.
The Tom & B'Elanna development was also long overdue. Their spacewalk was a good way, creatively, to give her no where to run to hide from her emotions.
Seven also started to grow in this episode, and I like that storyline with the acception of how nice they were to the aliens at the end. I guess Janeway wanted to tiptoe away from them instead of face the armada, which seems like the smart choice.