If you don't like Sheppard don't watch this episode, since its practically *all* about him.
For you normal, non-dull folks its a blast.
On the face of it this episode is the basic "new species" fare. As far as that goes, as a race, the Travellers are interesting, however the whole is only as good as the sum of its parts. Ie characters...ie Larrin (played fantastically by Jill Wagner). Larrin is possibly the most intriguing femme fatale on Stargate in a long time. One the face of it she is cold and ruthless, but beneath that is a human woman struggling to survive, all layered in a character that will do anything to make sure her people do just that, survive.
The verbal (and physical) sparring between Sheppard and Larrin is entertaining to watch, and the chemistry between the two characters is subtle and nuanced, with the actors masterfully managing to put chemistry into scenes when the two should kill each other, they seem to be enjoying themselves.
The writers also manage to make you care about Larrin, and you find yourself fretting as she is being attacked by the Wraith. It's also nice to see Sheppard's Captain Kirk ways backfire on him as Larrin manages to distract him and remove his weapon (his pistol dammit, get your mind out of the gutter) from his holster in a way that would make Malcolm Reynolds blush.
The downside of the episode is that it is a little trite, the violence at times un needed, plus the rest of the team is practically useless in this episode. I'm also not that happy at Ronon's transformation from unpredictable mercenary to "one of the guys". The writers also make Sheppard seem a little *too* dumb, but minor niggles. A good, solid enjoyable episode.