I really liked this episode, despite the relative lack of "X" stuff. Although it's in the mold of a MOTW episode, it dovetails nicely with the previous episode ("Leonard Betts") in showing Scully's sudden desire to "smell the roses" before they are gone, nicely illustrated with the dried rose petal that she picks up and leaves on Mulder's desk.
The snippy conversation Scully has with Mulder before he leaves on a forced vacation was hilarious. I never realized that she didn't have a desk. LOL! I also loved Mulder's nerdy and single-minded need to instruct her on exactly what to do during his absence and his repeated phone calls to check on her progress - no wonder she needs a break from him. Scully's pointed observation that the Russian's story was lifted from a Rocky & Bullwinkle episode was also priceless. Mulder ownage!
As a whole, this episode was very well written and it was well-acted. I'm not sure I buy how "easy" Scully was to pick up, it doesn't seem in character for her, but perhaps that was the point - she needs a change and a chance to walk on the wild side. I liked her expression as she is tattooed, a perfect mix of apprehension and sensualism.
The music and soundtrack used for this episode were brilliant, the best yet in my opinion. The songs chosen for the bar scenes, in particular, were smart and witty.